FATIGUE OF JACKETS TAILORED FROM KERSEY WEAVE FABRICS

Fatigue of jackets tailored from a series of kersey weave fabrics was evaluated under both wear and simulation conditions, using an objective method of fabric evaluation based on the mechanical properties measured by the KES-FB. The simulation test was performed using the KES-F5 fatigue test machine with the addition of a small amount of carborundum powder. Tensile extension at 5 N/cm was chosen to represent fabric extensibility, EM 1 along the warp direction and EM2 along the weft. The di mensional stability of a jacket in wear was correlated with both the measured me chanical stability of the fabric and the measured durability of handle. Fabric hysteresis at low levels of shear strain increased markedly with increased wear and with a greater number of cycles in the simulation test. The ratio of EM2 / EM 1 and the value of EM2 of the fabric influenced the durability of handle. The optimum value of EM2/EM1 for good handle durability was approximately one for these kersey fabrics. Lower EM2 values tended to provide the most durable handle. © 1990, Sage Publications. All rights reserved.