Numerical calculations of ocean surface waves in a coastal zone

Numerical simulation is here used as a tool for investigating sea floor effects on wind generated waves and swells entering a coastal zone. The mathematical model, the Mildslope Equation, is a refraction-defraction equation based on linear nonfrictional theory and assuming a slowly varying sea bed. We present two test cases: A harbour area with breakwaters, and the site of a planned wave power plant. The simulations show promising results. Due to adaptive gridding and incorporation of the effects of an infinite ocean outside the simulation area, the simulation software is able to handle larger areas with a satisfactory resolution than what is commonly feasible. In our conclusion we suggest that tools of this kind be used for investigation of worst case scenarios before and during planning of coastal zone constructions. With some extensions it could also be used for forecasting purposes.