Modelling wave deformation due to submerged breakwaters

The present paper presents an experimental and numerical study of partial wave reflection and transmission for monolithic rectangular submerged breakwaters located in the nearshore region. The study is based on large-scale experiments that have been conducted in Universitat Politecnica de Catalunya, Laboratory de Ingeneria Maritima in Spain. Both irregular and regular waves are tested under breaking and non-breaking conditions. The experimental findings confirmed that the wave breaking due to the presence of the structure is a main energy dissipation mechanism which significantly affects wave transmission. The numerical approach of the problem is based on a higher-order Boussinesq type of equations for breaking and non-breaking waves with improved linear dispersion characteristics. The energy loss due to eddy motions near the sharp corners of the structure is introduced in the model by using a hydraulic loss formula. The breaking criterion proposed by Okamoto and Basco was introduced in the numerical model. The comparison between model results and experimental data shows that the model is able to describe breaking and non-breaking wave deformation passing over a submerged breakwater