Large-amplitude long wave interaction with a vertical wall

被引：6
|
作者：
Pelinovsky, Efim [1 ,2 ]
Kharif, Christian [2 ]
Talipova, Tatiana [1 ]
机构：
[1] Inst Appl Phys, Nizhnii Novgorod, Russia
[2] IRPHE, Marseille, France
来源：
EUROPEAN JOURNAL OF MECHANICS B-FLUIDS | 2008年 / 27卷 / 04期
基金：
俄罗斯基础研究基金会;
关键词：
water waves; nonlinear shallow-water equations; wave statistics;
D O I：
10.1016/j.euromechflu.2007.08.003
中图分类号：
O3 [力学];
学科分类号：
08 ; 0801 ;
摘要：
The rigorous solution of the nonlinear shallow-water equations for the wave field near a vertical wall is derived; it is used to calculate the height of the water oscillations near the wall versus the height. of the incident wave. This solution is used to find the exceedance probability of characteristics of the wave motion near the vertical wall. It is shown that the wave height and trough distributions of water oscillations near vertical structures are less than the Rayleigh distribution. Beside of this, the distribution of the crest heights exceeds the Rayleigh distribution (using normalization of the amplification factor for such geometry within the framework of the linear theory), and this explains the high frequency of freak wave events on breakwaters and coasts. (C) 2007 Elsevier Masson SAS. All rights reserved.
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页码：409 / 418
页数：10
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