Characterization of historic silk by polarized attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy for informed conservation

When assessing historic textiles and considering appropriate conservation, display, and storage strategies, characterizing the physical condition of the textiles is essential. Our work has concentrated on developing nondestructive or micro-destructive methodologies that will permit this. Previously, we have demonstrated a correlation between the physical deterioration of unweighted and "pink" tin (IV) chloride weighted silk and certain measurable spectroscopic and chromatographic signatures, derived from polarized Fourier transform infrared attenuated total reflectance (FTIR-ATR) spectroscopy (Pol-ATR) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) microsampling analyses. The application of the Pol-ATR technique to aged silk characterization has now been extended to include a more comprehensive range of weighting methods and aging regimes. This was intended to replicate the full spectrum of states of deterioration observed in silk textiles, from pristine to heavily degraded. Breaking strength was employed as a measure of the physical integrity of the fibers, and, as expected, decreased with aging. An orientational crystallinity parameter, reflecting the microstructural ordering of the fibroin polymer within the fibers, was derived from the Pol-ATR spectra. A good correlation was observed between the breaking strength of the variety of fibers and this parameter. This suggests that the physical state of historic silk fabrics might be adequately characterized for conservation purposes by such indirect micromethodology.