Focusing wave group on a current of finite depth

被引：12
|
作者：
Merkoune, D. [1 ]
Touboul, J. [2 ]
Abcha, N. [1 ]
Mouaze, D. [1 ]
Ezersky, A. [1 ]
机构：
[1] CNRS, UMR6143, Lab Morphodynam Continental & Cotier, F-14000 Caen, France
[2] Univ Toulon & Var, CNRS, INSU, IRD,MIO,UM 110, F-83957 La Garde, France
来源：
NATURAL HAZARDS AND EARTH SYSTEM SCIENCES | 2013年 / 13卷 / 11期
关键词：
FREAK WAVES; DEEP-WATER; ROGUE WAVE; WIND; SEA;
D O I：
10.5194/nhess-13-2941-2013
中图分类号：
P [天文学、地球科学];
学科分类号：
07 ;
摘要：
Formation of freak waves resulting from the wave packets propagating in finite water depth on the background of a current is studied experimentally and numerically. In the experiment, the freak waves appear as a result of dispersion focusing of wave train excited by wave maker with modulated frequency. The space evolution of the frequency modulated train is studied in numerical simulations. We showed that in the water of finite depth, a distance of focusing increases and amplitude in the focal point decreases in comparison with infinite water depth. Experimental results are in good agreement with numerical simulations if wave breaking of surface waves does not occur.
引用
收藏
页码：2941 / 2949
页数：9
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