Modeling wave propagation over a barred beach with the FUNWAVE model

In this paper, the nonlinear FUNWAVE model (one dimensional version) is applied in the simulation of wave propagation in a channel with a bar-trough profile, for monochromatic and irregular breaking wave conditions. This application of the model enables the evaluation of its capacity to simulate the main phenomena involved in nearshore wave propagation. The free surface elevation and the spectrum as well as other statistics like the skewness and the kurtosis are compared with the experimental results. It was concluded that the model simulates quite well the wave characteristics along the channel. However, it has some limitations in the representation of wave breaking, in particular, in the case of the plunging breaker type.