On Kinematics and Dynamics of Breaking Water Waves

被引：2

作者：

Shemer, Lev ^{[1
]}

Noskowitz, S. Henri ^{[1
]}

机构：

[1] Tel Aviv Univ, Sch Mech Engn, IL-69978 Tel Aviv, Israel

来源：

IUTAM SYMPOSIUM ON WAVES IN FLUIDS: EFFECTS OF NONLINEARITY, ROTATION, STRATIFICATION AND DISSIPATION | 2013年 / 8卷

关键词：

extreme waves; rogure waves; waves kinematics; nonlinear waves; Zakharov equation; EVOLUTION;

D O I：

10.1016/j.piutam.2013.04.026

中图分类号：

O3 [力学];

学科分类号：

08 ; 0801 ;

摘要：

Velocities and accelerations at crests of extremely steep waves on verge of breaking are studied up to the 3rd order in wave steepness using the Zakharov equation. The theoretical analysis follows the experimental results on focusing of extremely steep waves obtained in two experimental facilities that differ significantly in size. Distinction is made between the apparent, Eulerian and Lagrangian accelerations. (C) 2013 The Authors. Published by Elsevier B.V.

引用

页码：205 / 212

页数：8

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