Observations of large infragravity wave runup at Banneg Island, France

被引:33
|
作者
Sheremet, Alex [1 ]
Staples, Tracy [1 ]
Ardhuin, Fabrice [2 ]
Suanez, Serge [3 ]
Fichaut, Bernard [3 ]
机构
[1] Univ Florida, Dept Civil & Coastal Engn, Gainesville, FL 32611 USA
[2] IFREMER, Lab Oceanog Spatiale, Plouzane, France
[3] LEGT Geomer Brest, IUEM, Plouzane, France
关键词
infragravity waves; trapped waves; storm waves; OCEAN; TRANSFORMATION;
D O I
10.1002/2013GL058880
中图分类号
P [天文学、地球科学];
学科分类号
07 ;
摘要
On Banneg Island, France, very high water-level events (6.5 m above the astronomical tide) have been observed on the western cliff, exposed to large swells from the North Atlantic. The analysis of hydrodynamic measurements collected during the storm of 10 February 2009 shows unusually high (over 2m) infragravity wave runup events. By comparing runup observations to measurements in approximately 7 m of water and numerical simulations with a simplified nonlinear model, two distinct infragravity bands may be identified: an 80 s infragravity wave, produced by nonlinear shoaling of the storm swell; and a 300 s wave, trapped on the intertidal platform of the island and generating intermittent, low-frequency inundation. Our analysis shows that the 300 s waves are a key component of the extreme water levels recorded on the island. Key Points The main component of 2 m infragravity wave at Banneg is a 300 s trapped wave
引用
收藏
页码:976 / 982
页数:7
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