Boussinesq modelling of solitary wave and N-wave runup on coast

被引:33
|
作者
Liang, Dongfang [1 ]
Gotoh, Hitoshi [2 ]
Khayyer, Abbas [2 ]
Chen, Jack Mao [3 ]
机构
[1] Shanghai Jiao Tong Univ, Dept Engn Mech, MOE Key Lab Hydrodynam, Shanghai 200240, Peoples R China
[2] Kyoto Univ, Dept Civil & Earth Resources Engn, Nishikyo Ku, Kyoto 6158540, Japan
[3] Univ Cambridge, Dept Engn, Cambridge CB2 1PZ, England
关键词
Runup; Solitary waves; N-waves; Total variation diminishing; Boussinesq equations; SURFACE-WAVES; BREAKING; EQUATIONS; TRANSFORMATION; BEACH; WATER; FORM;
D O I
10.1016/j.apor.2013.05.008
中图分类号
P75 [海洋工程];
学科分类号
0814 ; 081505 ; 0824 ; 082401 ;
摘要
A total variation diminishing Lax-Wendroff scheme has been applied to numerically solve the Boussinesq-type equations. The runup processes on a vertical wall and on a uniform slope by various waves, including solitary waves, leading-depression N-waves and leading-elevation N-waves, have been investigated using the developed numerical model. The results agree well with the runup laws derived analytically by other researchers for non-breaking waves. The predictions with respect to breaking solitary waves generally follow the empirical runup relationship established from laboratory experiments, although some degree of over-prediction on the runup heights has been manifested. Such an over-prediction can be attributed to the exaggeration of the short waves in the front of the breaking waves. The study revealed that the leading-depression N-wave produced a higher runup than the solitary wave of the same amplitude, whereas the leading-elevation N-wave produced a slightly lower runup than the solitary wave of the same amplitude. For the runup on a vertical wall, this trend becomes prominent when the wave height-to-depth ratio exceeds 0.01. For the runup on a slope, this trend is prominent before the strong wave breaking occurs. (C) 2013 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
引用
收藏
页码:144 / 154
页数:11
相关论文
共 50 条
  • [41] Traveling solitary wave solutions to the generalized Boussinesq equation
    Feng, ZS
    [J]. WAVE MOTION, 2003, 37 (01) : 17 - 23
  • [42] EXACT SOLITARY WAVE SOLUTIONS OF THE SPHERICAL BOUSSINESQ EQUATION
    NAKAMURA, A
    [J]. JOURNAL OF THE PHYSICAL SOCIETY OF JAPAN, 1985, 54 (11) : 4111 - 4114
  • [43] SURF-SIMILARITY PARAMETER FOR BREAKING SOLITARY-WAVE RUNUP
    KOBAYASHI, N
    KARJADI, EA
    [J]. JOURNAL OF WATERWAY PORT COASTAL AND OCEAN ENGINEERING-ASCE, 1994, 120 (06): : 645 - 650
  • [44] Numerical Study of Solitary Wave Runup on Triple-Island Groups
    Wu, Wei
    Liang, Dongfang
    Chen, Jack Mao
    [J]. PROCEEDINGS OF THE 35TH IAHR WORLD CONGRESS, VOLS III AND IV, 2013,
  • [45] Coupled wave action and shallow-water modelling for random wave runup on a slope
    McCabe, Maurice
    Stansby, Peter K.
    Apsley, David D.
    [J]. JOURNAL OF HYDRAULIC RESEARCH, 2011, 49 (04) : 515 - 522
  • [46] Inverse spectral problem related to the N-wave equation
    Sakhnovich, A
    [J]. DIFFERENTIAL OPERATORS AND RELATED TOPICS, 2000, 117 : 323 - 338
  • [47] Nondiffracting array generation using an N-wave interferometer
    Guérineau, Nicolas
    Primot, Jérôme
    [J]. Journal of the Optical Society of America A: Optics and Image Science, and Vision, 1999, 16 (02): : 293 - 298
  • [48] Boussinesq modelling of tsunami and storm wave impact
    McCabe, Maurice
    Stansby, Peter K.
    Rogers, Benedict D.
    Cunningham, Lee S.
    [J]. PROCEEDINGS OF THE INSTITUTION OF CIVIL ENGINEERS-ENGINEERING AND COMPUTATIONAL MECHANICS, 2014, 167 (03) : 106 - 116
  • [49] Observations of extreme wave runup events on the US Pacific Northwest coast
    Li, Chuan
    Ozkan-Haller, H. Tuba
    Medina, Gabriel Garcia
    Holman, Robert A.
    Ruggiero, Peter
    Jensen, Treena M.
    Elson, David B.
    Schneider, William R.
    [J]. NATURAL HAZARDS AND EARTH SYSTEM SCIENCES, 2023, 23 (01) : 107 - 126
  • [50] Binary Darboux transformations and N-wave systems in rings
    Leble, SB
    [J]. THEORETICAL AND MATHEMATICAL PHYSICS, 2000, 122 (02) : 200 - 210