Boussinesq modelling of solitary wave and N-wave runup on coast

被引:33
|
作者
Liang, Dongfang [1 ]
Gotoh, Hitoshi [2 ]
Khayyer, Abbas [2 ]
Chen, Jack Mao [3 ]
机构
[1] Shanghai Jiao Tong Univ, Dept Engn Mech, MOE Key Lab Hydrodynam, Shanghai 200240, Peoples R China
[2] Kyoto Univ, Dept Civil & Earth Resources Engn, Nishikyo Ku, Kyoto 6158540, Japan
[3] Univ Cambridge, Dept Engn, Cambridge CB2 1PZ, England
关键词
Runup; Solitary waves; N-waves; Total variation diminishing; Boussinesq equations; SURFACE-WAVES; BREAKING; EQUATIONS; TRANSFORMATION; BEACH; WATER; FORM;
D O I
10.1016/j.apor.2013.05.008
中图分类号
P75 [海洋工程];
学科分类号
0814 ; 081505 ; 0824 ; 082401 ;
摘要
A total variation diminishing Lax-Wendroff scheme has been applied to numerically solve the Boussinesq-type equations. The runup processes on a vertical wall and on a uniform slope by various waves, including solitary waves, leading-depression N-waves and leading-elevation N-waves, have been investigated using the developed numerical model. The results agree well with the runup laws derived analytically by other researchers for non-breaking waves. The predictions with respect to breaking solitary waves generally follow the empirical runup relationship established from laboratory experiments, although some degree of over-prediction on the runup heights has been manifested. Such an over-prediction can be attributed to the exaggeration of the short waves in the front of the breaking waves. The study revealed that the leading-depression N-wave produced a higher runup than the solitary wave of the same amplitude, whereas the leading-elevation N-wave produced a slightly lower runup than the solitary wave of the same amplitude. For the runup on a vertical wall, this trend becomes prominent when the wave height-to-depth ratio exceeds 0.01. For the runup on a slope, this trend is prominent before the strong wave breaking occurs. (C) 2013 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
引用
收藏
页码:144 / 154
页数:11
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