NEARSHORE CIRCULATION AROUND A SEMICIRCULAR SPIT AND ALONG CUSPATE COAST.

In this paper the author theoretically solves the nearshore currents around a semicircular spit, where the surf zone width is much smaller than the radius of curvature of the spit, and compares the solution with the experimental result. It is concluded that the theoretical solution explains the experimental result reasonably well. The nearshore current along a cuspate beach is also theoretically solved by introducing a curvilinear coordinate. This solution can explain the cause of the development of the large scale cuspate beach and the tombolo in the lee of the detached breakwater.