Use of natural oils as bioactive ingredients of cosmetic products

Introduction. Oils components embedded in the lipid structure of the horny layer of the epidermis, changing the properties of the epidermal barrier. The most important characteristic of fatty vegetable oils that determines the properties of cosmetic ingredient content is the esters of fatty acids. Materials and methods. The mixes of oils (coconut, palm, almond, grape seed, olive, corn, sesame, wheat germ), which fatty acid composition imitated the structure of cell membranes were done by empirical method. It was made for creating cosmetic fat phase composition. Detection of fatty acids were carried out on the gas chromatograph production Hewlett-Packard NR6890 by conventional method. Results and discussion. Empirical selection of possible mixtures of oils or mixtures of a particular calculation algorithm from an existing set of known oil fatty acid composition.The results of screening the fatty acid composition of traditional cosmetic oils show that fatty acids found in all known fats and oils, but their content varies widely. The most balanced composition is peanuts, wheat germ oil, olive, coconut, almond, palm and rapeseed oil. However, the compound of any of the individual oils do not meet the standards of cosmetology. Studied the characteristic ratio of linoleic and oleic acids for normal healthy skin is about 1:1,8, while for dry skin, it is about 1: 4,7. The most optimal in terms of the content of mono- and poly unsaturated fatty acids is a composition comprising coconut, sesame oil and wheat. Value linoleic (C18:2) and oleic (C18:0) acids it is 1:8, which is adequate for normal healthy skin, and the ratio of polyunsaturated linoleic (C18:2) and alpha-linolenic (C18:3 omega-3) is close to the biologically effective level and is perfect 1:11 to 1:10. Conclusions. Such cosmetic base consists entirely of natural plant oils and is designed for use in formulations and fat emulsion cosmetic care dry irritated skin, its supply and softening.