Development and validation of LC/APCI-MS method for the quantification of oat ceramides in skin permeation studies

Ceramides (CERs) are the backbone of the intercellular lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum (SC), the outer layer of the skin. Skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and aged skin are characterized by dysfunctional skin barrier and dryness which are associated with reduced levels of CERs. Replenishing the depleted epidermal CERs with exogenous CERs has been shown to have beneficial effects in improving the skin barrier and hydration. The exogenous CERs such as phyto-derived CERs (PhytoCERs) can be delivered deep into the SC using novel topical formulations. This, however, requires investigating the rate and extent of skin permeation of CERs. In this study, an LC/APCI-MS method to detect and quantify PhytoCERs in different layers of the skin has been developed and validated. The method was used to investigate the skin permeation of PhytoCERs using Franz diffusion cells after applying an amphiphilic cream containing PhytoCERs to the surface of ex vivo human skin. As plant-specific CERs are not commercially available, well-characterized CERs isolated from oat (Avena abyssinica) were used as reference standards for the development and validation of the method. The method was linear over the range of 30–1050 ng/mL and sensitive with limit of detection and quantification of 10 and 30 ng/mL, respectively. The method was also selective, accurate, and precise with minimal matrix effect (with mean matrix factor around 100%). Even if more than 85% of oat CERs in the cream remained in the cream after the incubation periods of 30, 100, and 300 min, it was possible to quantify the small quantities of oat CERs distributed across the SC, epidermis, and dermis of the skin indicating the method’s sensitivity. Therefore, the method can be used to investigate the skin permeation of oat CERs from the various pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical products without any interference from the skin constituents such as the epidermal lipids.