Effects of Two vs. Four Weekly Campus Board Training Sessions on Bouldering Performance and Climbing-Specific Tests in Advanced and Elite Climbers

被引:13
|
作者
Stien, Nicolay [1 ]
Pedersen, Helene [1 ]
Vereide, Vegard A. [1 ]
Saeterbakken, Atle H. [1 ]
Hermans, Espen [1 ]
Kalland, Jarle [1 ]
Schoenfeld, Brad J. [2 ]
Andersen, Vidar [1 ]
机构
[1] Western Norway Univ Appl Sci, Dept Sport Food & Nat Sci, Sogndal, Norway
[2] Lehman Coll, Dept Hlth Sci, Bronx, NY USA
关键词
Isometric; pull-up; rate of force development; strength; STRENGTH; DETERMINANTS; FREQUENCY; ENDURANCE; EXERCISE; FORCE;
D O I
10.52082/jssm.2021.438
中图分类号
G8 [体育];
学科分类号
04 ; 0403 ;
摘要
This study examined the effects of two or four weekly campus board training sessions among highly accomplished lead climbers. Sixteen advanced-to-elite climbers were randomly allocated to two (TG2), or four weekly campus board training sessions (TG4), or a control group (CG). All groups continued their normal climbing routines. Pre- and post-intervention measures included bouldering performance, maximal isometric pull-up strength using a shallow rung and a large hold (jug), and maximal reach and moves to failure. Rate of force development (RFD; absolute and 100ms) was calculated in the rung condition. TG4 improved maximal force in the jug condition (effect size (ES) = 0.40, p = 0.043), and absolute RFD more than CG (ES = 2.92, p = 0.025), whereas TG2 improved bouldering performance (ES = 2.59, p = 0.016) and maximal moves to failure on the campus board more than CG (ES = 1.65, p = 0.008). No differences between the training groups were found (p = 0.107-1.000). When merging the training groups, the training improved strength in the rung condition (ES = 0.87, p = 0.002), bouldering performance (ES = 2.37, p = 0.006), maximal reach (ES = 1.66, p = 0.006) and moves to failure (ES = 1.43, p = 0.040) more than CG. In conclusion, a five-week campus board training-block is sufficient for improving climbing-specific attributes among advanced-to-elite climbers. Sessions should be divided over four days to improve RFD or divided over two days to improve bouldering performance, compared to regular climbing training.
引用
收藏
页码:438 / 447
页数:10
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