Cholesteryl ester compounds containing alkyl branched acyl groups - their preparations, properties and applications

Cholesterol having a reactive hydroxyl group at C-3-position can react with fatty acids to give the corresponding cholesteryl esters. Most of the natural cholesteryl esters consist of straight alkyl chain fatty acids with a high melting point. In oleochemistry it is well known that alkyl branched fatty acids, which are derived from petroleum or the fat and oil industry, have low melting points (mp.) and are chemically more stable if they are saturated acids. We designed alkyl branched fatty acid cholesteryl esters by means of common esterification and found some esters having a low mp. (mostly as a liquid). They had no irritative effect on both animal and human skin. They showed characteristic emulsification properties, namely the formation of either O/W or W/O emulsion coexistence together with other lipid components. Applying them onto human skin, they were able to penetrate towards the stratum corneum and improve the water-retaining ability and the barrier function of the stratum corneum. Based on these properties we have been applying the alkyl branched fatty acid cholesteryl ester, especially the methyl branched isostearic acid cholesteryl ester (IS-CE), to a shampoo and a rinse as hair cosmetics, skin care cosmetics and bath-additive products in the past decade.