Biocatalysis for the production of cosmetic ingredients

Biocatalysis has been proven to be a valuable and powerful tool for organic chemists, especially in the production of fine and pharmaceutical chemicals. When considering biocatalysis, terms like kinetic racemic resolution or chiral syntheses immediately come to mind. Application of enzymatic processes for the manufacture of bulk chemicals, e.g., in terms of care products, is not very widespread. Nevertheless, Degussa's Care Specialties business unit has set up a biocatalytic production process for the manufacture of special esters like cetyl ricinoleate, so-called emollient esters, used as skin caring oils in cremes and lotions. Despite the installation of this process, biocatalysis may only be regarded as one catalysis tool among others, mainly because there are only a few off-the-shelf biocatalysts ready for use. The alternative, the development of proprietary biocatalysts within the chemical industry, is a long and laborious route which will definitely be followed in the future, but which for the moment remains a long term goal.