Numerical Simulation of Spatial Lag Between Wave Breaking Point and Location of Maximum Wave-Induced Current

A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and the wave breaking point. The governing equations are derived from Navier-Stokes equations and solved by the hybrid method combining the fractional step finite different method in the horizontal plane with a Galerkin finite element method in the vertical direction. The surface rollers effects are considered through incorporating the creation and evolution of the roller area into the free surface shear stress. An energy equation facilitates the computation process which transfers the wave breaking energy dissipation to the surface roller energy wave driver model is a phase aged wave model based on the wave action balance equation. Two sets of laboratory experiments producing breaking waves that generated longshore currents on a planar beach are used to evaluate the model's performance. The present wave-driven coastal current model with the roller effect in the surface shear stress term can produce satisfactory results by increasing the wave-induced near-shore current velocity inside the surf zone and shifting the location of the maximum longshore current velocity landward.