Prediction of undertow and beach profile change over barred beach

This paper deals with a prediction model of bottom topographical change over barred beaches. A morphodynamic model, which takes into account the vertical distribution of undertow and suspended load concentration in the surf zone, was proposed. In the prediction model, undertow profiles were determined by using quasi three-dimensional model proposed by Kuroiwa et al. (2001). The sediment transport rate was considered the effect of the suspended load that was estimated by using advection and diffusion equation. The presented model was calibrated and verified by comparing with data measured in the large-scale wave flume and field site and then the applicability was discussed.