On kurtosis and occurrence probability of freak waves

被引：250

作者：

Mori, Nobuhito

Janssen, Peter A. E. M.

机构：

[1] Osaka City Univ, Grad Sch Engn, Sumiyoshi Ku, Osaka 5588585, Japan

[2] European Ctr Medium Range Weather Forecasts, Reading RG2 9AX, Berks, England

来源：

JOURNAL OF PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY | 2006年 / 36卷 / 07期

关键词：

D O I：

10.1175/JPO2922.1

中图分类号：

P7 [海洋学];

学科分类号：

0707 ;

摘要：

Based on a weakly non-Gaussian theory, the occurrence probability of freak waves is formulated in terms of the number of waves in a time series and the surface elevation kurtosis. Finite kurtosis gives rise to a significant enhancement of freak wave generation in comparison with the linear narrowbanded wave theory. For a fixed number of waves, the estimated amplification ratio of freak wave occurrence due to the deviation from the Gaussian theory is 50%-300%. The results of the theory are compared with laboratory and field data.

引用

页码：1471 / 1483

页数：13

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