Learning from hair moisture sorption and hysteresis

Objective: The process of moisture sorption and desorption by human hair was analysed for extracting hints on the hair structure. Methods: The isotherms of moisture sorption and desorption by hair were recorded for untreated and chemically treated (permed and bleached) hair. Data of swelling were also considered. Results: By examining the swelling and moisture sorption of keratin fibres, it is possible to conclude that hysteresis is quite improbably caused by capillary condensation. The mobility of the protein chains and the strength of the bonds binding water molecules to the active sites inside the matrix are proposed as causes instead. The concept of "breaking symmetry", derived from moisture sorption- desorption data, and the method of evaluating this parameter, is proposed as a way of characterizing the chemical treatment of hair. The results show that bleaching produces a larger breaking of symmetry than perming, and this is suggested to be due to new hydrogen bonds, created as a result of the chemical treatment, replacing the original disulphide bonds, which are of different strength compared to the bonds of untreated hair. The quantitative sorption data matched well to the model of grains of matrix enveloped in layers of water molecules at increasing relative humidity, up to 100%. The analysis suggested that, aside from the glass transition event occurring at around 60%-70% relative humidity, there is another, less examined, transition occurring at around 30% relative humidity, assigned to the opening of the hair inner structure, and accommodation of more water molecules. Both transitions are reflected by corresponding changes in the fibre mechanical behaviour. Conclusion: The moisture sorption-desorption by hair was shown to not only allow a quantitative differentiation among various cosmetic treatments of the hair but to also provide valuable information on the structure of the fibre.