We study the temporal dynamics of all-optical switching in nonlinear directional couplers in periodically poled lithium niobate. The characteristic features of such switching, including asymmetric pulse break-up and back-switching were measured in full agreement with the theoretical predictions. Based on the time-resolved measurement of intensity-dependent switching, finally the theoretically long-known continuous-wave switching curve has experimentally been confirmed. 2012 American Institute of Physics. [http://dx.doi.org/10.1063/1.3696030]