To disclose or not to disclose? Fashion brands' strategies for transparency in sustainability reporting

Purpose The purpose of this quantitative study is to identify disclosure strategies for transparency in sustainability reporting to support strategic thinking around transparency in the fashion industry. This research has two specific research objectives: to capture progress towards greater transparency across sustainability reporting areas, across fashion brands and years, and to identify strategic approaches for transparency in sustainability reporting by revealing common patterns in business disclosure. Design/methodology/approach The authors cross-sectionally analyzed secondary data using four consecutive Fashion Transparency Indices (2017-2020). Brands' strategies for transparency in sustainability reporting were examined through the stakeholder theory lens. Findings Findings confirm the presence of four approaches to disclosure: measurable, ambiguous, policy-only and secretive strategy. The disclosure was disproportionally distributed between 30% brands as transparency leaders and 70% brands as transparency laggards. The most transparent brands were not necessarily those rated highest by the index but those whose progress toward transparency was traceable over the years. Research limitations/implications The study has overcome the limitation of the verifiability approach, supporting the requirement for diachronic and strategic disclosure assessments. Practical implications As most brands hesitantly disclose sustainability information, stakeholders cannot know whether business policies equate to more than a corporate wish list. If there is no inspection for mandatory business disclosure, and if there is no penalty for disclosure violations, some fashion retailers will continue to generate profits while operating in an uncompliant and "opaque" manner. Originality/value The framing of disclosure strategies for transparency in sustainability reporting is the first scholarly effort to investigate diachronically sustainability disclosure among a big sample of major fashion brands.