Infrasound from large surf

[1] Simultaneous infrasonic, visual, and ocean-bottom pressure sensor observations of large swells on the island of Kauai and small to medium-sized surf on the island of Hawaii yielded a clear relationship between breaking wave height and low-frequency atmospheric sound amplitudes in the 1-20 Hz frequency range. These experiments confirmed that infrasound can be generated by barreling waves as well as by waves crashing against rocky shorelines and exposed ledges. As will be demonstrated in a companion paper, breaking wave period may also be extracted from infrasound data. The results of these experiments demonstrate that low-frequency sound may be used for real-time estimates of the amplitude, period, and spatial distribution of surf in the littoral zone, with a potential application to the identification of breaking wave types.