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Observations of shoreline-sandbar coupling on an embayed beach
被引:68
|作者:
van de Lageweg, W. I.
[1
]
Bryan, K. R.
[2
]
Coco, Giovanni
[3
]
Ruessink, B. G.
[1
]
机构:
[1] Univ Utrecht, Fac Geosci, Inst Marine & Atmospher Res, NL-3508 TC Utrecht, Netherlands
[2] Univ Waikato, Dept Earth & Ocean Sci, Hamilton 3240, New Zealand
[3] Natl Inst Water & Atmospher Res, Hamilton 3216, New Zealand
来源:
关键词:
shoreline;
sandbar;
beach morphology;
video observations;
beach rotation;
NEW-ZEALAND REGION;
WAVE HINDCAST;
RIP CHANNELS;
MEGA-CUSPS;
VARIABILITY;
CURRENTS;
QUANTIFICATION;
MORPHODYNAMICS;
BATHYMETRY;
MORPHOLOGY;
D O I:
10.1016/j.margeo.2013.07.018
中图分类号:
P [天文学、地球科学];
学科分类号:
07 ;
摘要:
We analyse a seven-year dataset (1999-2005) of shoreline and sandbar variations derived from video observations at the embayed Tairua Beach, New Zealand, to explore sandbar-shoreline coupling and to determine how this coupling is related to alongshore-averaged sandbar-shoreline separation and beach rotation. Our results quantify the coupling between the sandbar and the shoreline which is directly related to the reduced separation between the sandbar and the shoreline. Using a simple predictive shoreline model, we show that this behaviour is related to the energy of the incoming waves. Our observations are obtained from a headland-enclosed beach and show aspects of the morphological state that relate to the existence of headlands that are not considered in the Wright and Short beach state classification. Both the sandbar and shoreline at Tairua Beach rotate relatively quickly (<1 month) during the winter storm events, when the storms are accompanied by strong alongshore components, gradually returning during the summer months. The sandbar-shoreline coupling length scale is controlled by this rotation, with large wavelengths occurring when the sandbar is strongly rotated. (C) 2013 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
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页码:101 / 114
页数:14
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