Topical treatment strategies to manipulate human skin pigmentation

Skin pigmentation is a result of melanin produced by melanocytes in the epidermis. Melanocyte activity, along with the type and distribution of melanins, is the main driver for diversity of skin pigmentation. Dark melanin acts to protect against the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation, including photo-aging and skin cancer formation. In turn, UV radiation activates skin melanocytes to induce further pigmentation (i.e., "tanning pathway"). The well-characterized MSH/MC1R-cAMP-MITF pathway regulates UV-induced melanization. Pharmacologic activation of this pathway ("sunless tanning") represents a potential strategy for skin cancer prevention, particularly in those with light skin or the "red hair" phenotype who tan poorly after UV exposure due to MC1R inactivating polymorphisms. Skin hyperpigmentation can also occur as a result of inflammatory processes and dermatological disorders such as melasma. While primarily of cosmetic concern, these conditions can dramatically impact quality of life of affected patients. Several topical agents are utilized to treat skin pigmentation disorders. Here, we review melanogenesis induced by UV exposure and the agents that target this pathway. (c) 2020 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.