Dilution-controlled deposition of mixtures of a synthetic polycation and a natural origin polyelectrolyte with anionic surfactants on negatively charged surfaces

The cosmetics industry is constantly seeking sustainable and environmentally friendly ingredients for hair care formulations to replace those traditionally derived from the petrochemical industry. In this context, the substitution of traditional cationic polyelectrolytes, such as poly(diallyldimethylammonium chloride, PDADMAC), by others of natural origin, such as chitosan, is a key challenge to achieve new formulations with a higher degree of naturality and more environmentally friendly without compromising product efficacy. This work investigates the effect of dilution on the phase separation of concentrated binary mixtures of two anionic surfactants (sodium laureth sulfate, SLES, and sodium dodecyl sulfate, SDS) with PDADMAC or chitosan. PDADMAC is a polycation of petrochemical origin, whereas chitosan is obtained from natural resources. Also, how this phase separation affects the formation of conditioning deposits on surfaces that mimic the charge and wettability of damaged hair fibers has been studied. The results show that for polymers of similar molecular weight, the substitution of PDADMAC by a highly charged chitosan is a promising alternative. The deposition is greatly enhanced for model wash formulations containing chitosan after minimal dilution. The results obtained here may pave the way to an important line of research toward improving the sustainability profile of hair care formulations without compromising consumer satisfaction.