New insights into the dyes of Central Asian ikat textiles

Central Asian ikat textiles are characterised by their bold and large abstract patterns, made up of vibrant colours with a characteristic "blurred edge" effect, which makes them some of the most recognisable fabrics worldwide. Eleven ikats from the collection of the National Museum of Asian Art, Smithsonian Institution (Washington, DC, USA) and six ikats from the collection of the British Museum (London, UK) were investigated by high pressure liquid chromatography coupled to diode array detector and high-resolution tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-HRMS/MS) to identify the dyes and expand on recent research focused on the integration of synthetic dyes in ikat dyeing during the second half of the 19th century. The results confirmed that the palette of natural dyes includes cochineal (probably mostly from a local species native to central Asia) for red, larkspur (Delphinium semibarbatum) for yellow, and indigo for blue as the main dye sources. In some of the textiles, madder (Rubia tinctorum) for red and pagoda tree (Sophora japonica) for yellow were also detected as minor components mixed with cochineal and larkspur, respectively. Synthetic dyes, such as scarlet reds (C.I. 16150 and 16155), rose bengale (C.I. 45435), eosin (C.I. 45380), erythrosine (C.I. 45430), fuchsin (C.I. 42510/42520), methyl violet (C.I. 42535/42555), malachite green (C.I. 420 0 0) and brilliant green (C.I. 42040) were detected in eight textiles. In three textiles, natural dyes were identified in the ikat-dyed silk warp threads and synthetic dyes in the red cotton weft threads, highlighting interesting mixtures of materials and textile-making practices. Natural yellow dyes were used in all textiles, even those for which all the other colours are synthetic. These results provide significant new information about the changes in ikat production that occurred during the 19th century in Central Asia. (c) 2023 Consiglio Nazionale delle Ricerche (CNR). Published by Elsevier Masson SAS. All rights reserved.