WAVE DEFORMATION IN THE SURF ZONE.

被引：0
|
作者：
Iwata, Koichiro
Sawaragi, Toru
机构：
来源：
Memoirs of the Faculty of Engineering, Nagoya University | 1982年 / 34卷 / 02期
关键词：
HYDRODYNAMICS - WATER WAVES - Propagation;
D O I：
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中图分类号：
学科分类号：
摘要：
An elucidation of the mechanics of wave breaking and wave deformation after breaking has been a matter of great interest to coastal engineers as well as researchers in the hydrodynamic field. The purpose of this paper is to discuss the wave characteristics at the inception of wave breaking and the wave deformation in the surf zone up to the dry bed from theories and experiments. Waves treated in this paper are both regular and irregular waves. The wave breaking conditions and breaker types, the wave characteristics, such as the wave height, wave profiles, etc. , at the breaking point, the internal mechanics of the breaking waves, the changes of wave heights and the mean water levels, and the wave run-up heights are described. The main part of the paper discusses regular wave deformation in the surf zone.
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页码：239 / 283
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