Numerical study of wave transformation over fringing reef flat

被引:0
|
作者
Chen H. [1 ,2 ]
Bi C. [2 ]
Gao J. [3 ]
机构
[1] School of Civil Engineering and Architecture, Northeast Electric Power University, Jilin
[2] The State Key laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian
[3] School of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering, Jiangsu University of Science and Technology, Zhenjiang
来源
Bi, Chunwei (bicw@dlut.edu.cn) | 2018年 / International Research and Training Center on Erosion and Sedimentation and China Water and Power Press卷 / 29期
基金
中国国家自然科学基金;
关键词
Fringing reefs; Nonlinear feature; Parameterization; Wave transformation;
D O I
10.14042/j.cnki.32.1309.2018.02.013
中图分类号
学科分类号
摘要
The evolution of wave shapes on fringing reefs is closely related to nearshore nutrient delivery and sediment transport of coral sand. It also plays a crucial role in determining the design and construction of the structure on the reef flat. Therefore, investigating the evolutions of wave shapes on the reef flat is necessary. In this paper, the FUNWAVE 2.0 numerical model was employed to simulate irregular waves, which propagate over different types of fringing reefs, and the influence of forereef bottom slope and reef roughness on the evolution of wave shapes was discussed. Results showed that an increase in the absolute value of wave asymmetry is moderated by the slope of the forereef bottom becoming steeper. Moreover, the absolute value of asymmetry for the smooth bed condition is slightly larger than that for the rough bed condition. However, the wave skewness on different fringing reefs is almost the same. This indicates that the forereef bottom slope significantly influences wave asymmetry variation and the effect of reef roughness is relatively small. However, the abovementioned factors have a negligible effect on the wave skewness. In conclusion, the empirical formulae for wave skewness and wave asymmetry on the reef flat by combining the influence of forereef bottom slope and reef roughness are recommended. © 2018, Editorial Board of Advances in Water Science. All right reserved.
引用
收藏
页码:252 / 259
页数:7
相关论文
共 17 条
  • [1] Yao Y., Tang Z.J., Du R.C., Et al., Laboratory study of wave transformation and wave-induced setup over reef islands under the effect of tidal current, Advances in Water Science, 28, 4, pp. 614-621, (2017)
  • [2] Ma G., Su S.F., Liu S., Et al., Numerical simulation of infragravity waves in fringing reefs using a shock-capturing non-hydrostatic model, Ocean Engineering, 85, 3, pp. 54-64, (2014)
  • [3] Mei T., Gao F., Flume experiment research on law of wave propagation in reef, Journal of Waterway and Harbor, 34, 1, pp. 13-18, (2013)
  • [4] Zhao Z.D., Zhang Q.H., Wave transformation on coral reefs and submerged steps, Marine Science Bulletin, 14, 4, pp. 1-10, (1995)
  • [5] Cheriton O.M., Storlazzi C.D., Rosenberger K.J., Observations of wave transformation over a fringing coral reef and the importance of low-frequency waves and offshore water levels to runup, overwash, and coastal flooding, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 121, 5, pp. 3121-3140, (2016)
  • [6] Filipot J.F., Cheung K.F., Spectral wave modeling in fringing reef environments, Coastal Engineering, 67, 3, pp. 67-79, (2012)
  • [7] Nwogu O., Demirbilek Z., Infragravity wave motions and runup over shallow fringing reefs, Journal of Waterway Port Coastal & Ocean Engineering, 136, 6, pp. 295-305, (2010)
  • [8] Yao Y., Huang Z., Monismith S.G., Et al., 1DH Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation over fringing reefs, Ocean Engineering, 47, 2, pp. 30-42, (2012)
  • [9] Su S.F., Ma G., Hsu T.W., Boussinesq modeling of spatial variability of infragravity waves on fringing reefs, Ocean Engineering, 101, pp. 78-92, (2015)
  • [10] Li M.Q., Zhu L.S., Sui S.F., Characteristics os wave attention on the coral reef, The Ocean Engineering, 21, 2, pp. 71-75, (2003)