Muscle strength in sport climbing: a systematic review and meta-analysis

<bold>INTRODUcTION:</bold> This study aimed to synthesize the literature comparing muscle strength and endurance characteristics between 1) sport climbers and non-climbing controls; 2) sport climbers at different performance levels; and 3) boulderers and lead climbers. <bold>EVIDENcE AcQUISITION: </bold> A systematic literature search (PubMed, Embase and SportDiscus) was performed. Inclusion criteria involved participants aged >18, muscular performance measurements and comparisons of either: climbers and non-climbers, boulder climbers and lead climbers, or climbers of different levels. Meta-analyses comparing grip strength and muscle endurance of the forearm between sport climbers and non-climbers, and finger strength between boulders and lead climbers were conducted providing the standardized mean difference (SMD). <bold>EVIDENcE SYNTHESIS: </bold> A total of 960 climbers and 301 non-climbers were included in the study. The data showed: 1) compared to non-climbers, climbers showed significantly higher grip strength: SMD 1.82 (95% CI 1.23; 2.41, P <0.001) and underarm endurance: SMD 0.70 (95% CI 0.17; 1.24, P=0.01); 2) compared to lead-climbers, boulder climbers showed significantly higher finger strength: SMD 1.08 (95% CI 0.54; 1.62, P<0.001); 3) higher-level climbers showed better finger strength, grip strength, forearm endurance and powerslap when compared to lower-level climbers. <bold>coNcluSioNS</bold>: climbers had superior grip strength and forearm endurance compared to non-climbers. High-level climbers exhibited better finger strength, grip strength, forearm endurance and powerslap, when compared to lower-level climbers. Finally, boulder climbers exhibited greater finger strength than lead-climbers. These findings expand our understandings of climbers' physical attributes across disciplines and levels.