The application of a non-hydrostatic RANS model for simulating irregular wave breaking on a barred and sloping beach

In the current study, a non-hydrostatic two-dimensional vertical (2DV) numerical model with a shock-capturing technique is developed to simulate irregular wave breaking on a barred beach. The complete form of the 2DV Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations is discretized using the finite volume approach. In the spatial discretization phase, a flux limiter function is employed for the velocity advection terms to prevent non-physical oscillations in regions with steep gradients. A novel method has been introduced during the discretization stage, leading to a significant reduction in computational expenses. For temporal discretization, the Leapfrog method, known for its second-order accuracy in time, is employed to address wave-damping issues. Model validation involves a comparison between simulation results and experimental data pertaining to irregular wave breaking, affirming the satisfactory performance of the model. To evaluate the accuracy of the model, the Root Mean Square Error (RMSE) was calculated. The assessment showed that the model is capable of estimating the significant wave height reported in the experiments used with an RMSE between 0.002 and 0.089, and the mean wave periods with an RMSE between 0.061 and 0.252.