Dispersive characteristics of non-linear waves propagating and breaking over a mildly sloping laboratory beach

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作者
Martins, Kévin [1 ]
Bonneton, Philippe [1 ]
Michallet, Hervé [2 ]
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[1] UMR 5805 EPOC, CNRS - University of Bordeaux, Allée Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire, Pessac,F-33615, France
[2] UMR 5519 LEGI, CNRS - University Grenoble Alpes, CS40700, Grenoble,38058, France
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Harmonic analysis - Dispersion (waves) - Energy transfer - Spectrum analysis - Water waves - Beaches - Dispersions;
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