Comparative Analysis of Physical and Mechanical Properties of Fabrics Woven in Twill and Sateen Weaves

The paper deals with the analysis of physical and mechanical properties of fabrics woven in four-end twill and eight-end sateen weaves from the same materials and under the same weaving conditions. The purpose of the analysis was to give insight into these properties, which might help designers in the selection of appropriate weaves to achieve visual as well as physical and mechanical properties of end products required during the use. For the purposes of the research 12 samples of fabrics in seven weaves were designed and woven. The samples were classified into three groups in dependence of the weaving method and constructional parameters. The samples of the first and second group were made on industrial loom with the preset warp density 46 ends/cm and the linear density of the warp 17 x 2 tex. The samples of the first group were woven with the same yarn in the weft, only that the yarn was not sized, and with the weft density 26 picks/cm, whereas the samples of the second group had the linear density of the weft 25 x 2 tex and the weft density 18 picks/cm. The third group was woven on laboratory loom with the warp density 40 ends/cm and the weft density 26 picks/cm with the same yarn in the warp and weft 17 x 2 tex. In the first group, which comprised seven samples, four of them were woven in twill weave (weft-facedtwill and double-faced twill, and its broken variants in the repeat) and three of them in eight-end sateen (weft-faced sateen and two versions of reinforced sateen). The fabrics of the second group were woven in twill and broken twill weaves, and the fabrics of the third group were woven in sateen weaves. The research included investigations of constructional, physical and mechanical properties of woven samples. It has been found that in the case of identical constructional parameters and weaving conditions the selection of weave considerably affects physical and mechanical properties of fabrics. Industrially manufactured fabrics in twill weave achieved for more than 100 N higher breaking forces in the warp direction than the fabrics woven in sateen weave. In the weft direction, industrially manufactured twill fabrics achieved only 45 N higher strength than the fabrics woven in sateen weave. The breaking elongation of fabrics woven in twill weave was two to two and a half times higher in the warp direction than in the weft direction. Breaking elongations of fabrics in sateen weave in the warp and weft direction only slightly differed; they were of the same order of magnitude. Weaving conditions as well as use of industrial or laboratory looms also affected physical and mechanical properties. Fabrics made under laboratory conditions achieved better mechanical properties than industrially manufactured fabrics, which can be attributed to lower stresses and consequently, smaller damages during the weaving process. The research can help designers to select appropriate weaves when designing structural patterns (shaft and jacquard fabrics) which will in addition to visual characteristics and effects impart also appropriate physical and mechanical properties to the manufactured fabrics.