THE MECHANICAL-PROPERTIES AND FABRIC HANDLE OF POLYESTER-FIBER SHINGOSEN FABRICS

Features of the mechanical properties and fabric handle of polyester-fibre 'Shingosen' fabrics are studied precisely by the objective-evaluation method of fabric handle. The distinctive features are clearly shown for each 'Singosen' type, classified conventionally as: New Silky, Peach Face, Rayon Touch, and New Worsted fabrics, which were produced more recently (1991-92). A new classification based on the main technique for producing 'Shingosen' fabrics is proposed as: Contractile Fibres, Irregular Shapes, Yarn Processing, and Ultra-fine Fibres groups. It is shown clearly that the Irregular Shapes group corresponds well to the New Silk type and that the Yarn Processing group corresponds to the New Worsted type. Three independent types of primary handle, FUKURAMI, HARI, and SHARI, were selected for 'Shingosen' fabrics by cluster analysis, and the corresponding three fabric groups, FUKURAMI group (high FUKURAMI), HARI group (high HARI), and SHINAYAKASA group (low SHARI), are defined. 'Shin-Shingosen' fabrics belong to the Rayon Touch type or the Yarn Processing group or the HARI group. However, one other fabric tested did not belong to any type of group of 'Shingosen' fabrics.